Mistakes. We all make 'em. As the Jewish New Year draws closer (and yours truly, Clever Gretel, celebrates this holiday, usually with a few stiff drinks before dealing with the menu) we ponder our sins and, ultimately, ask forgiveness. I have committed many sins. One of them is relying too often on the pizza man or, worse, a guy named Bob Evans, to provide food for my family. However, I was busy adding another member to said family, the Lovely Baby Named Phoebe, whom we will call Winnie, for short. This curtailed my desire to think about food, eat like a normal person or cook for the better part of the past two years (has it really been that long?).
But there are other sins out there I ask you to consider. For me, this one would have been impossible to write about in my formerly pregnant state. In recent weeks, there's been much hooplah about The Doughnut Burger, currently being served at state fairs around our country. In the spirit of culinary
equanimity I ask you: how big a sin is it? Is it contributing to the scourge of obesity besetting our country? Or is it merely a low-brow version of a burger on a brioche? Famed Chef
Daniel Boulud stuffs his with assorted fillings, such as
foie gras, short ribs, truffles etc., so what about an indulgent burger for the rest of us?
Consumers of The Doughnut Burger (also called The Luther, as in Vandross) said, in
USA Today, they liked the sweet/salty combination of meat and sugar. Doesn't everyone? So, I ask you, what is American barbecue enjoyed with cornbread if not sweet/salty plus spicy? What is a delicious dim sum without a savory/sweet pork bun? Isn't that just bacon in a cupcake?
A quick look at the nutrition facts and exercise estimates via the
Calorie King reveals that you only have to walk a
bit further to burn off the doughnut burger than the burger on brioche. Here are the stats:
A brioche from the Breadsmith has 140 calories, Total Fat 8g, Sat. Fat 4.5g, Trans Fat 0g, Cholesterol 55mg, Sodium 150mg, Total Carbs. 15g, Dietary Fiber 0g, Sugars 2g, Protein 3g, Calcium 10mg. Time needed to walk off brioche: 39 minutes.
Now add the burger: A 3.5 oz. burger contains: Calories 250, Total Fat 9g, Sat. Fat 3.5g, Fat 0.5g, Cholesterol 25mg, 520mg, Total Carbs. 31g, Dietary Fiber 2g, Sugars 6g, Protein 12g Calcium 100mg. Time needed to walk off burger: 69 minutes.
Here's the data for one Krispy Kreme Glazed Original Doughnut: Calories 200, Total Fat 12g., Sat. Fat 6g, Trans Fat 0g, Cholesterol 5mg, Sodium 95mg, Carbs. 22g, Dietary Fiber 0.5g,
Sugars 10g, Protein 2g, Calcium 60mg. Time needed to walk off doughnut: 55 minutes.
But, here's the rub, The Doughnut Burger is made with
two, I repeat,
two, doughnuts. So, double all of the nutrition data above and add another 55 minutes of walking. You can walk off the Doughnut Burger in around 3 hours, as opposed to around 2 for the brioche burger. You can easily burn that walking around the State Fair. Granted, I am not including any burger toppings, such as cheese or bacon or State Fair calves liver (that was a joke, but, really, why not? Daniel would do it). I also suspect I am making a large assumption on burger size. Who eats a 3.5 ounce burger anymore?
Still, hypothetically, even if the burger is a six-ouncer,
if The Doughnut Burger is the ONLY food you eat at the State Fair and you visit every exhibit, resting only to watch the little girls in 4H march with their sheep, you aren't committing so grave a sin. You could even, in theory, ask for the burger to be served on just
one doughnut, cut in half, like the brioche. This would reduce the penance of walking by an hour. You might even get to skip the sheep viewing.
And speaking of walking as penance, bear in mind that Clever Gretel resides in Cincinnati, where local Catholics walk the steps of Mt. Adams as penance on Easter, after or before eating a meal of Goetta (a loaf of steel cut oats and hamburger meat, sliced and fried, over which one might, if one so chooses, pour syrup. Ah ha! There's that sweet/salty thing again, but now with a hint, of dare I say, the divine?).
In conclusion: I can condemn the sins of sloth and gluttony. I can rail against the lack of produce in less affluent neighborhoods and abundance fast foods, poor school nutrition and lack of preventive care for Type Two diabetes, for these represent the sin of not caring for ourselves and our neighbors. Yet, I cannot entirely condemn The Doughnut Burger. It is a choice, like so many others, that can be managed have we the will to do so. Therefore, I place it on the ever-expanding continuum of indulgence our society is known for and move on, perhaps to something more palatable. Fried butter anyone?