Recovering from a severe stomach illness that rendered me unable to eat anything except broth for a week, I've had time to reflect on my last great cooking adventure with my friend Anna. When she came down for a visit last month, we took on The New Spanish Table and made three courses for friends. Our meal was Potato Soup with Fried Almonds, Salad with Hazelnut, Apricot and Sherry Vinegar Dressing, Lamb Meatballs With Mint and an Orange Tart for dessert. All three dishes were great, although the tart was problematic.
What struck me most was the quality of our cooking time together. These days, with Lincoln busier than ever and me holding down the house on the hill, I mostly cook alone, although with Bartleby capering about in the background. I didn't even know when Anna proposed cooking together if I was capable of it. Would I have to explain things to her? Find things in the kitchen? Be a big crank? I am so used to talking myself through trouble spots, finding solutions in mere seconds, coming up with the big ideas for meals, burning my thumbs when no one can hear me scream...I just didn't know if there was room for someone else in my kitchen. To my great relief, the recipes naturally divided themselves into a fair division of labor based on skills. Anna took the soup and dessert, I did the meatballs and the salad. We frequently consulted the book and each other. We also accomplished all of our cooking in a mere four hours. It was harmonious and so pleasing to show off these dishes to friends. It felt like we had stepped out of a Gourmet Magazine photo spread.
Foodwise, I would change little. The soup, on a second trial, tastes better without smoked meat and with an all vegetable stock. The tart really needed the oranges peeled - unless you really like bitter.
Sopa De Patatas Y Almendras
Source: The New Spanish Table, Anya Von Bremzen, published by Workman
Meat eaters note: You can substitute whole smoked turkey leg (sliced) for the ham or...
Vegetarians and vegans note: You can an all veggie version with a vegetable stock, like I am today.
Sticklers note: From the original, I edited out the cumbersome cutting method for the potatoes. It works if you cube them.
Food Obsessives note: I suspect if you use marcona almonds from Spain, this recipe will be even better. Turmeric may substitute for saffron.
Ingredients:
1 1/2 Lbs Yukon Gold potatoes
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup blanced almonds
6 large garlic cloves, peeled
1/3 cup (about 2 ounces) finely diced serrano ham or prosciutto
4 cups chicken stock or broth, or more if needed
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium-sized pinch of saffron, pulverized in a mortar
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar, preferably aged, or more to taste
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley (to garnish)
Dense country bread, for serving
1) Cut the potatoes into cubes
2) Heat the olive oil in a heavy 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the almonds and garlic and cook, stirring, until golden, 4 to 5 minutes, adjusting the heat so the oil doesn't burn. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the almonds and garlic to a bowl. Add the ham or turkey to the pan and stir for 1 minute. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring, for another minute. A dd the chicken stock and bring to a boil, skimming. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer the soup.
3) Meanwhile, place the almond and garlic mixture in a mini food processor and grind it. If you like almond bits in your soup, grind the mixture somewhat coarsely; otherwise, grind it fine. Add all but about 2 tablespoons of the ground nut mixture to the saucepan with the potatoes, Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4) Steep the saffron in a few tablespoons of the simmering soup for 2 minutes, then add it to the pan. Simmer the soup, partially covered, until about half of the potatoes have disintegrated, about 35 minutes. Skim the soup a couple of times as it cooks and add a little more chicken stock if the soup seems too thick.
5) When ready to serve, check the texture of the soup. If you'd like it creamier, break up some of the potatoes with a sturdy spoon; if you'd like it thinner, add a little more chicken stock. Add 2 teaspoons almond mixture and stir it into the soup. Add the parsley and cook for another minute. Taste for seasoning, adding a little more vinegar if necessary. Serve the soup with bread.
SERVES 4
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